This Village is One of Southern Turkey’s Best Kept Secrets

If you’re looking for a family-friendly off-the-beaten-path hidden gem of a destination in Southern Turkey, this beautiful slice of Earth may just fit your bill perfectly. Cirali (pronounced CHEE-RAH-LEE) is a beautiful garden oasis located 1.5 hours south by car from Antalya on the Mediterranean, nestled in a quiet valley on the sea surrounded by mountains and ancient ruins. Cirali is unlike any place I’ve visited in my lifetime; it’s got the quiet charm of Waipio Valley on the Big Island of Hawaii, the crystal clear water with pebbled beaches of Crete, and the pine forests of the Pacific Northwest, but Cirali is its own very special place. This rural village is tucked away requiring a drive down a winding road into the valley, about 20 minutes from the main highway. If you’re expecting big buildings and well established infrastructure with a main street and nightlife, this is most definitely not the place for that. Cirali is for the laid back traveler in search of the ultimate relaxation and peace in a no-frills lush natural setting. 

I’ll be honest; when we arrived in Cirali for the very first time back in 2023, I was weary and jetlagged (we had come all the way from Seattle over three days of travel with a nine-month old baby!) so my first impression was not very positive because of how rugged and rustic it looked. However, it immediately grew on me the very first time I walked to the sea, and it continued to grow on me more and more ever since. It has now become our annual summer holiday gathering place to meet with our family every year, and now that we live in Spain, it’s just a few short flights away. It’s easy to fall into a natural routine, following the rhythm of the sea, the sunrise and sunset. One of my favorite things to do, is simply wander through the village by bike or by foot.

There is plenty to explore within the village with beautiful views delighting the senses around every corner. My favorite vista is the mosque in between the greenhouse with the towering Mt. Olympos in the background, standing at nearly 2,300 meters (7,750 feet), the blue minaret glowing as the sun shone through it, appearing as though it was lit up from below.

TIP: Download MapsMe when you arrive, as it will work offline and it will show all the tiny roads that are not listed on GoogleMaps.

I was amazed at how much grows in Cirali; the flora is diverse, ranging from bougainvillia to roses, palm trees to pines, azaleas to cacti, and many hot houses growing rows and rows of tomatoes. Each year we stay in Ikiz Villas, which is situated in a private orchard surrounded by orange, lemon, and pomegranate trees. In the evening we fall asleep to the sound of crickets and frogs, and in the mornings we are awoken by the call to prayer from the one and only mosque in the entire valley, along with roosters crowing and pecking in the front yard, turkeys gobbling, and geese squawking. The light swaying of the wind, beautiful birds singing all around, and cats and kittens roaming the premises freely is such a calming feeling.

The main clientele in Cirali are Russians, Ukrainians, Eastern Europeans, and local Turks from other parts of the country on holiday. You will not find any large hotels, nor any chains. Cirali is the polar opposite of corporate, and that’s what makes it so charming. All establishments are local or family-owned restaurants and cafes.

Accommodation here is called pansiyon, and there are myriad options to choose from, ranging from camping in tents on a dirt lot, to garden bungalows, to mid-luxury villas. The grounds for some of these accommodations are beautifully designed and aesthetically pleasing; well manicured and lush; orange tree gardens with hammocks, birds nest swinging chairs and natural elements. I imagine that Cirali is perhaps what Tulum in Mexico used to look like, before it became overrun with Instagrammers and partiers.

Daily life in the village is easy, slow, and relaxing, and consists of waking up with the sun and the roosters, enjoying breakfast in the garden, a morning swim in the calm sea, swaying in a hammock with a book, sun bathing, and lounging beneath a shaded umbrella. Oh, and usually joined by a cat or two.

The main mode of transportation throughout the village is by bicycle. There are plenty of places to rent a bike for a day or for your entire visit. Some accommodations even provide bikes that come included in the cost of your stay. If you plan on renting a car, you should do so upon your arrival, which will most likely be in Antalya. Having a rental car is helpful, as it can be upwards of a 30-minute walk from some accommodations to restaurants or the sea, and a rental car is a must if you’d like to explore surrounding areas on day trips (continue reading below for day trips from Cirali.) There are many dirt roads and cobblestone streets that all connect throughout the valley, along with a main paved road that goes along the sea and is lined with restaurants. All restaurants have ample outdoor seating and the classic Turkish booths where you can recline barefoot and enjoy a tea. There is one two-way loop which goes around the village.

There are even some restaurants along the river further up the village road with booths in the water! Talk about a unique dining experience igniting all the senses!

Cirali is a very family-friendly destination; we are always welcomed here with our child, as he’s been coming here since he was a baby. The entire village is filled with multi-generational families and many young infants and toddlers. The locals are all friendly and wave at our son, rub his head and touch his cheeks. Every restaurant has a high chair (they call it “baby chair”), and kids will love the Turkish booths!

We stay in Cirali for two weeks every year in early June, and it doesn’t get busy until mid to end of June. Weather is very pleasant and even a bit chilly at night, but as July approaches, temperatures quickly climb into the mid 30’s (over 90 F) during the daytime. It is also quite humid, which makes it feel hotter, especially since Cirali is in a valley. The saving grace is the breeze from being on the sea. It gets busier in July and August, but because of how many restaurants there are, I can’t imagine it ever getting so busy that you have to wait for a table since there are so many restaurants. If you’re traveling with kiddos, the best time to visit the beach is in the early morning and late evening when the sun isn’t as strong.

The food in Cirali is delicious and fresh; local veggies during summer consist of tomatoes, peppers and onions, and fresh fruits include oranges, pomegranates, strawberries, apricots, peaches and delicious sweet cherries, all of which you can purchase in the local markets. There are several markets, all of which are small but carry a few meats such as chicken and frozen manti (Turkish dumplings), yogurt, milk, cheese and sausage, but other than that, the markets sell mostly dry foods such as Turkish delight, chocolates, chips, etc. There is no large grocery store to speak of, so cooking at home is relatively limited. The main seafood served here is sea bass, red snapper and sea bream, and they come at relatively affordable prices and are charged by weight.

8 THINGS TO DO IN CIRALI:

1. Walk to the Ruins of Olympos Ancient City
2. Hike to Chimera – permanent gas vents, like multiple eternal flames
3. Rent a Boat to Explore the Coves
4. Rent a cruiser bicycle and explore the valley; I recommend downloading MapsMe, which works offline and shows all the smaller dirt trails and side roads
5. Visit the Tuesday bazaar
6. Enjoy the Golden Hour (just before sunset) at the Beach and Admire the Beach rock Art
7. Try donduram ice cream 
8. Hike part of the Lycian Trail (520 kilometers (320 miles) and stretches from the area of Fethiye to Antalya – part of the route goes through Cirali)

FUN FACT: Cirali Beach is home to the Caretta caretta turtles, which lay their eggs on the beach. If you see these markers up, please do not disturb the area, as this is where the eggs have been laid. Activists and volunteers help to mark these areas to help protect the species from going extinct.

Ancient Ruins of Olympos

From Cirali, the ruins are walking distance at the Southernmost end of the beach, but it’s best to park near Ikiz Restaurant and walk along the beach from there. There is a small entry fee, but not typically until after 8AM. It’s best to go early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid the large tour buses that come from Antalya.

These ruins belonged to the Lycian empire, and are particularly unique because of their location in a dense forest and alongside the cliffs. I recommend to take a look at MapsMe before you go, because the ruins are quite scattered. After visiting, we realized that we hadn’t even seen half of it! The ruins include an impressive castle built into the cliffside overlooking the sea, and an amphitheater.

Hike To Chimera Gas Vents

Just a five minute drive (or you can walk) from the village, lies an easy hiking trail to Chimera to see an interesting phenomenon of perpetually burning fires. Here methane and other gases emerge and burn from the rocks below, causing multiple eternal flames. Many people visit at night to see the fire aglow, but it is rocky and slippery, so I recommend wearing shoes with good grip and bringing a flashlight or headlamp if you hike at night. Several visitors like to bring sausages, marshmallows, and even cauliflower to roast over the flames! A fun and unique picnic idea. There is a minimal entrance fee.

Rent a Boat to Explore the Coves

One of the best ways to explore these beautiful and calm bays, is by boat! You can join a shared boat or rent a private boat with a captain depending on your party size and budget.

Explore the Valley by Bicycle

Whenever we leave Cirali, biking lazily through the village is what I miss most. It’s such a simple pleasure, yet it’s what makes this place so special and memorable. Everything is bikeable within under half an hour – you can be at The Beaver Coffee Roasters for a nice espresso, at the Tuesday market, at the beach, or pedaling through the center of the valley filled with wildflowers and grazing goats. There is one road that goes through the village, and it loops around the valley. You can drive it in less than 15 minutes, or bike it in under half an hour.

Visit the Tuesday Bazar

Each Tuesday local vendors set up at a local market along the river in the main part of the village; here you will find all kinds of local produce, honey, olives and a plethora of Turkish Delights, tea, spices, olive oils and fish. There are also several clothing vendors selling locally made muslin cotton shorts, linen tops and dresses. Vendors always prefer cash (though most accept credit card), so be sure to bring some Turkish Lira.

Enjoy the Golden Hour at the Beach and Admire the Beach Rock Art

Because the beach is composed of pebbles, both large and small, there is always interesting rock art to admire. People also enjoy stacking rocks here, but the structures that some of these artists create are remarkable!

Try Donduram Ice Cream

This is the local Turkish ice cream with the thick consistency of Italian gelato.

DAY TRIPS FROM CIRALI:

1. Antalya (1.5 hours North)
2. Church of Saint Nicholas and Myra Ancient City Ruins (1.75 hour drive)
3. Rhodiapolis Ancient City (50 minute drive)
4. Phaselis Orenyeri Archaeological Site (35 minute drive) – ancient ruins, pine forests, and crystal clear sea for swimming
5. Olympos Sea To Sky Teleferico (45 minute drive): 1,900 meters (5,700’) – if you’re into adrenaline sports, you can even paraglide down! (We gave this excursion a miss because we had recently done something very similar (with the same name, actually) in Vancouver, Canada)

Antalya

Most people coming to Southern Turkey, stay in Antalya or Alanya for their holiday, as both are larger resort towns. My husband and I based ourselves in Istanbul for about a month during our Digital Nomad Journey in Europe (If you’ll be visiting Istanbul, check out my Complete Travel Guide to Istanbul)

Church of Saint Nicholas and Myra Ancient City Ruins

Located in the town of Demre about 1 hour and 45 minutes drive from Cirali, is the Church of Saint Nicholas, who is the inspirational legend for Santa Claus! In the 4th century he was appointed as a Saint due to his giving and caring nature (he was said to have left coins in the stockings of girls who did not have a dowry to get married, and this allegedly started the tradition of putting gifts in stockings during Christmas!) The church is now a museum that holds the remains of Saint Nicholas. Over time it was flooded and filled with silt, which helped to preserve the beautiful tile floor. The frescoes are sharp and well preserved.

Just a ten-minute drive further, are the Ancient Ruins of Myra, which are remarkable and look like something straight out of a Sci-Fi movie with graves built into the side of the rock wall! Myra was said to be one of the six leading cities in Lycia. Due to its location along the Lycian Way Hiking Trail, it is frequented by over 1,000 visitors per day.

On the way back to Cirali, there is a restaurant on the water called Kaya; the atmosphere was lovely, the food was good, and the swing over the water off the dock was fun!

Rhodiapolis Ancient City

Located just under one hour by car from Cirali, are wonderfully preserved ancient Greek ruins called Rhodiapolis. The ampitheatre still stands strong; I even tested out the acoustics with some opera!

WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING CIRALI:

1. It’s wise to always have some Lira with you, as tipping is preferred in cash, and some vendors do not accept card. Otherwise the markets and restaurants accept credit card and Apple Pay from your phone. There are ATMs in the village
2. Essentials are sold at the market, but in very small quantities, so if you’re staying for a long time, you may want to stock up on supplies from larger cities prior to arriving in the village
3. There is one beach that stretches the entirety of the village, so there is plenty of space and never gets too crowded. The beaches are part sand and part pebbles, which can hurt your feet when you walk, so it’s best to bring water shoes or slippers
4. There are umbrellas and lounge chairs for rent all along the beach, and the markets also sell inexpensive umbrellas. The best time to swim is in the morning and evening when the sun is not so hot (during summer season)
5. Even though Turkey is a Muslim country, it is acceptable to wear swim attire, however, bathing topless would be inappropriate 
6. If you have children and are traveling with a pram, be sure that the wheels can roll on cobblestone streets, dirt roads, sand and rough rocky pavements 
7. If you are not used to rural living, it may take a few days to get used to being woken at early hours of the morning by roosters
8. You will indeed leave Cirali feeling ultimately at peace and stress-free

Cirali has become our beloved and much anticipated annual family gathering spot, and if you have the opportunity to visit, you will see why Cirali is such a magical and charming destination on Planet Earth.

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