Is there anything more magical than spending Christmas in Prague? Warmth from market vendors meets the frigid air all around the city, creating smoke as though the whole city was a magic show. The tantalizing aroma of chimney cake and churros fills the Christmas markets, followed by smells of smoked ham and potato latkes. The vocals of choirs and carols bring smiles and joy to the faces of visitors, as they peek into each stall, admiring hand-carved wooden ornaments, wool mittens, and scarves. Mulled wine and hot apple cider warm freezing hands, as travelers from near and far stand in awe of the Church of Our Lady Týn – the picture perfect postcard view of Prague’s main town square.
The vintage tram passes over the tracks as the modern tram chugs by silently in the opposite direction.
We make our way through crowds across the Charles Bridge, enjoying classical music performers and admiring statues along the way.
We watch the head of Franz Kafka rotate in anticlimactic anticipation.
One wants so badly to take a photo, but as soon as you remove your hands from your gloves, they freeze over and become numb in a matter of seconds, so you slip the warmth and coziness of the glove back on your icicle hand and use your nose to manipulate the camera on your phone. (Bottom right is how the pram looks whenever we de-layered upon entering a restaurant. 😂)
Blue skies, sunshine, delicious breakfast, hot coffee, always a hot drink in hand so as not to shiver. Short days, frigid air, cozy naps, warmth by the fireplace, beef goulash, hot chocolate every night, the sound of Christmas bells, magic in the air, the buzz of excited tourists – many of whom traveled across the world to be here over the holidays, whilst we traveled a mere 3.5 hours by plane.
Oh how I love this beautiful magical city, Prague.
Being from Hawaii, it has been on my life bucket list for years now to see a real Christmas market in Europe, and this year I got to Czech that off my list (sorry, I had to! 😂) Now that we live in Spain, Europe is truly our oyster in terms of where we can easily travel, all within a few hours’ plane ride. We figured Germany would be too crowded and Switzerland would be too expensive, and we had already been to Vienna, so we made a last-minute decision to visit Prague and purchased tickets five days before we left! In this blog post I will cover how to visit Prague over the Christmas holidays, with bonus tips for traveling with kids, as we had our three-year-old with us. We’re already planning to return for a deeper dive into more of the culture and history of Prague, as we missed quite a bit and only had a shallow introduction to whet our appetite!
Visiting Prague over the festive season is incredibly magical, and though temperatures were below freezing (lows in the 20’s and highs in the 30’s F), it was sunny every day and didn’t rain or snow, so we got very lucky with the weather! We have visited many beautiful European cities (we even live in one (Valencia)!), but Prague truly takes the cake in terms of architectural beauty and nature. Surrounded by medieval, art nouveau, and gothic architecture, Prague is the city of 100 spires, with castles, bridges, and romantic waterways abound.
There is so much to see and do in Prague, but in just six days over the holidays and with our little one in tow, our goal was simply to enjoy time together as a family, walk everywhere, enjoy a change of scenery from our home in Valencia, eat all the market foods, hear a new language, and visit several of the top attractions and landmarks rather than to see and do it all (which is impossible in a short amount of time!) Below are 22 wonderful things to see and do in Prague over Christmas.
Christmas Market Hop and Try as Many Foods as Possible!
There are a handful of Christmas markets, most of which are open until Christmas Eve, and then around 3 remain open until 6 January (including the major one in the old town square) During our six days, we visited the markets nearly every night, and tried Belgian hot chocolate, churros, potato latkes, smoked ham roasting on the rotisserie, roasted chicken baguette with pickles, mini pancakes, hot Merlot spiced mulled wine, hot apple cider for our three-year-old son, potato crepe with pulled pork and cabbage, potato crepe with sausage and goose fat, sour cherry and poppy seed pastries, and paprika sausage hot dog, just to name a few! And of course, the famous chimney cake is a must! I’ll be honest, my first introduction to chimney cake was at a Prague stand at our local farmers market in Seattle where we lived for ten years. I did not care for it at all (probably because it was not served warm), and then we again tried it here in Valencia, Spain during Oktoberfest, but it was made by a Romanian, and it was very bad, so with two failed attempts, I actually avoided trying the chimney cake during our entire trip until my husband bought one on the last night and said we couldn’t leave Prague without at least trying it! And the verdict…oh. my. goodness. Absolute delicious sugary cinnamon-ey magic bread. I’m actually glad we waited until our last night to try it, otherwise I would have bought one every single night. Lesson learned, that you must try a food from the place from which it originates!
Take the Tram to Letna Park
Much like Lisbon, the city of Prague is well connected by a system of trams. Some are vintage cars, and some are newer, more modern electric cars. Letna Park is where you can photograph the postcard view of Prague’s many bridges (all in one shot!) overlooking the Vlatava River. It’s a lovely park to walk in, and great for kids as there is a nice playground. Don’t forget to check out the giant metronome atop the hill! From here you can also see the top of Petrin Hill (photo above) and Petrin Tower.
Take the Funicular up Petrin Hill and Climb the Petrin Tower Lookout
Sadly, the funicular was under renovation when we visited, but normally it runs to the top of Petrin Hill (alternatively, you can also walk if you’re looking for a hilly workout!) In 1889, members of the club of Czech Tourists visited the world exposition, and were inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris. They started building the tower, which was completed in just four months. Today, you can climb the Petrin Tower Lookout by climbing 299 steps or taking a lift. The views of the brown and red-roofed buildings and old town below are stunning. There is also a playground here for children.
Watch the Walk of the Apostles on the Astronomical Clock Every Hour
Each hour on the hour starting at 9AM and ending at 11PM, sets off the figures in motion. Can you believe this clock was built in 1410!? You can even see the inner workings of the mechanics if you climb the Old Town Hall tower, offering a fascinating glimpse into this engineering marvel.
Climb the Tower inside Old Town Hall for Views of the Old Town
Prague was one of the few European cities largely unharmed by the destruction of World War II. Its historic center remains remarkably intact, so you can truly admire the beauty of how the town has looked since the beginning of its existence. Views during Christmas of the markets below are even more magical.
Visit the Hip Trendy Neighborhood of Vinohrady
This low-key neighborhood is where both locals and expats live, and has a quiet residential feel to it. Here you can find excellent food options and speciality coffee shops abound. Be sure to visit the nice owner, Santiago from Argentina at Mala Argenta to warm up with some delicious home made empanadas, perfect for a break from the frigid cold outside.
Wander Across the Scenic Pedestrian-Only Charles Bridge
Prague has many bridges, but Charles Bridge is the most famous, and only pedestrians are allowed to cross (no cars or trams), making it a popular and busy spot. This 14th century stone bridge connects the old town to the lesser town (Mala Strana). Be sure to visit during daylight hours and at night, when it transforms into a magical experience, and feels like a page straight out of a fairytale book. From here you can see views of the nearby Prague Castle up the hill in the distance. For a better photo opportunity with few people, go at sunrise.
*Tip if Traveling with Kids* – There is a playground just below the bridge once you cross, which has some of the most beautiful views from any playground I’ve seen! Your kiddos may also enjoy seeing the line of yellow penguins; after crossing the Charles Bridge, turn left and start walking towards Kampa along the Vltava river and you’ll see the installation of yellow penguins. This is a temporary art installation made from recycled plastic bottles to raise awareness about climate change and plastic waste.
Walk the Cobblestone Streets of Malá Strana
Nestled below Prague Castle, the “lesser town” is the historic charming district across the Vltava River from the Old Town.
Photograph the Vibrant John Lennon Wall
After John Lennon was murdered in 1980, an unknown artist painted a wall of him in his honor. Despite repeated attempts by authorities to paint over it, it still remains a piece of peaceful protest, with all sorts of messages. You can even make your own contribution to the wall. Located in Mala Strana.
Visit the Kingdom of Railways Museum
Whether you’re traveling with kids or not, this is a very cool museum, especially if you’re into model trains. Entirely constructed cities to scale, fill this museum on two floors, with fascinating trains traveling throughout. Kids will enjoy driving remote controlled race cars and entering real trams and buses in the display downstairs.
Visit the National Museum
Our flat was located just one block from here, and this ended up being our three-year-old’s highlight of our entire trip to Prague. He was fascinated by the dinosaurs, sharks, and mammoths on display. Located just behind Wenceslas Square, this museum is dedicated to the natural, scientific, and historical collections of the Czech Republic and its people and culture.
Visit the Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad) & Take a Wander Through Golden Lane
Recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records, Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle complex in the world and is magnificent to stand beneath, embracing the feeling of smallness over such an imposing architectural and historical complex. Covering nearly 70,000 square meters, this is the #1 tourist attraction in Prague, so expect crowds nearly year round, but especially during busy season. It’s best to plan your visit and purchase tickets in advance, as there are several different types of tickets and prices depending on what you’d like to see. Visiting the grounds of the castle’s outskirts is free of charge and open until 10PM, but to enter parts of the castle, including Golden Lane, you must purchase a ticket. After 4PM in the winter (November – March) and after 5PM in the summer (April – October), entrance to wander the outside of Golden Lane is free, but if you’d like to enter the houses and see the alchemist’s chambers, you must purchase a ticket for daytime hours entry. Golden Lane is a picturesque narrow alley with cobblestone streets and colorful houses built into the castle walls. They used to house guards and later artisans of Prague, including the famous writer, Franz Kafka. On the day we visited, temperatures were around 20 F with wind, and we hadn’t purchased tickets in advance, so we gave Golden Lane a miss and simply wandered around the grounds instead. Next time!
Visit the Jerusalem Synagogue
Also known as the Jubilee Synagogue, this is an active Orthodox Jewish Synagogue and the largest in Prague. There is a small fee for admission, or you can admire the ornate facade from the street. In the 13th century, the Jewish Quarter in Prague was a walled ghetto and one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. Later reforms under Joseph II led to the freedom of Jews from the ghetto, and transformed into a modern district.
Pass by the Franz Kafka Rotating Head
Franz Kafka was a German-speaking Jewish writer from Prague. When he was dying at the age of 40 from tuberculosis, he requested to his good friend and fellow writer to burn his manuscripts, but instead of burning them, his friend published his works, including letters from Kafka, which brought a rose to fame after his death from someone who never wanted to be in the spotlight in the first place. Every minute or so, a part of Kafka’s shiny head rotates like a rubric’s cube, symbolic of one of his most famous works, The Metamorphosis.
Other notable mentions that we’ll need to see during our next visit to Prague!
Enjoy a Drink with Views at the Glass Bar Rooftop Bar Atop the Dancing House
Built in deconstructivist (going against traditional structures) style, this modern building stands out as it stands proud and tall, juxtaposed against gothic construction. Built in 1996, the concept was inspired by the dance skills of the famous film duo, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers.
See an Unusual Sight of a Live Eel Inside a Beautiful Mosaic Fountain
I read in our host’s “Secrets of Prague” book, that there is a live eel living inside a beautiful mosaic tile fountain, whose name is Pepa. This fountain is located inside the Czech Insurance Company on Spalena 76/14 street. The first recorded Pepa the eel was allegedly caught in the Vltava River in 1914. There have been several versions of Pepa (when one dies, another is caught and carries out the name). Eels have a lifespan of between 50 – 100 years, so these fellas call the insurance center home for a very long time!
- Visit Klementium’s Baroque Library (book tickets in advance)
- See the Statue of King Wenceslas Riding an Upside-Down Dead Horse at Lucerna Music Bar
- Enter the Municipal Library of Prague to see the Infinity Book Tower
- Sample Your Way Through Manifesto Food Market
- Try an Innovative Cocktail at the Michelin-Star Rated Hemingway Bar
- Dine at Výtopna Railway Restaurant
If you have kids or train lovers in your family, this is a pretty neat concept, similar to something we experienced in Tokyo, Japan. Your food and drinks are delivered to you via a working model train, directly to your table. Reservations should be made in advance, as it’s always crowded. It’s rated relatively low on Googlemaps, and we had a reservation but decided to skip it, as we got our fix at the Railway Museum.
While we were able to see a fair amount in our six short days and check several items off our list, we still have so much more to explore! We will definitely be back, probably in Spring when it’s not so cold and not too crowded, prior to the summer rush.
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