My husband and our child and I recently moved from Seattle to Spain, and one of the top reasons for our move to Europe was the potential to travel with ease all around the Schengen zone without limits. In the heat of August in Valencia, I was craving fresh mountain air and a quieter city center to explore, but most of all I was craving nature. As I researched our options, Slovenia piqued my interest and I quickly went from, “wow, this country looks stunning, how is it not more well known?” To, “Honey, I’ve just booked our flights and accommodation; we leave in two weeks.” We visited in the beginning of August, where temperatures were absolute perfection. Slovenia typically experiences mild summers, but when we visited, it reached the 90’s F (low 30’s C!) We had 10 days straight of warm sunshine and perfect weather.
During our trip, we e-biked to Italy through some of the most rugged and beautiful mountains, marveled at the Julian Alps, swam in several lakes, did a mountain toboggan, hiked to and walked behind a waterfall, dipped our toes in the mountain river, dined at a Michelin star restaurant inside a fortress, visited a castle, swam in the Adriatic sea, and took a train through one of the largest cave systems in the world – just to name a few!
In this blog post, find out why Slovenia has become one of my top five favorite countries in the world! I will cover how to get to Slovenia, when to visit, how much time to spend in the country, must-try local food, where to stay in Slovenia, and all the best things to do in Slovenia! (Read on to the end for my list of things to see, do, and eat in the country’s capital, Ljubljana.)
How To Get To Slovenia
Because Slovenia is such a small country, there are several ways you can reach it. Many folks go through Zagreb or Split (find out here why Split is One of Our Favorite Cities in Croatia.) The route from Valencia where we now live is only a two-hour flight to Trieste, Italy, followed by a 1.5-hour drive to Ljubljana, where we based ourselves. It was so much fun to be able to pass through Italy twice during our holiday (Italy is one of few countries we are always giddy with excitement to return to, even after spending a cumulative total of 3 months there.)
We chose to stay overnight in Trieste upon our arrival because I will never say no to a good pizza, cornetto, and a walk around a charming cobblestoned Italian city! The next day, refreshed and with our Italian fix, we drove 1.5 hours to Ljubljana, where we based ourselves for 9 nights.
Below are some photos of Trieste, which used to be Austro-Hungarian territory. The architecture resembles what you see in a city like Vienna.
When To Visit Slovenia
If you’re looking for great weather for outdoor activities with the ability to swim in the lakes and rivers, summer is your best bet (July – August). For stunning fall foliage, visit in late September through early November. For winter activities such as skiing and Christmas markets, visit during December – January.
How Much Time Should You Spend in Slovenia?
We spent a total of ten days in this beautiful country and it still wasn’t enough time to see everything on our list!! Many people view Slovenia as a pass-through country because of its size, spending only a few days en-route to other nearby countries such as Croatia, and cities such as Vienna. However, I’m going to advocate for dedicating an entire holiday to Slovenia, especially if you’re visiting in the summer, because there truly is so much to see and do, especially if you love nature! If you’re looking for the top highlights and don’t have a lot of time, you can visit most of Ljubljana in two days as it’s very small. We loved having our home base here because we enjoyed going into the city every day at least once after a day of hiking and swimming, or to start our day with breakfast before a long bike ride.
About Slovenia
This lesser-known European gem is geographically located in the Balkans, but their identity aligns more with Central Europe. Bordered by Hungary, Croatia, Italy, and Austria (4 countries we’ve also spent time in), this small but mighty country gathers influences from its neighbors, yet also has its own strong identity. It’s a very young country, recently gaining independence from Yugoslavia in 1991. It’s also a young country in terms of the age of the population, and speaking with several locals, the young folks seem to love living here and don’t feel the need to leave.
Slovenia as a whole, is incredibly clean, orderly, and blessed with some of the most beautiful nature I’ve seen in my world travels. One of the first things you’ll notice when you step foot into the old town of Ljubljana, is how clean it is. There are no smells of urine on the street or dog poop laying like mines on the sidewalk (which unfortunately is common in some Western European capital cities), there’s no trash or cigarette butts on the street (this is because Slovenians pride themselves on being tidy), and when you order bottled water, 95% of the time it will come in a glass bottle. Plastic waste is not as prevalent here as it is in areas like South America, Mexico, or Turkey. This made my environmental heart sing! Also, the tap water is very clean and highly regulated, so you can fill up your reusable hydroflasks with tap water!
The architecture of the city capital, Ljubljana, is beautiful, the people are friendly, English is widely spoken, and Ljubljana is rated one of the top ten safest cities in Europe. It’s also a great place to visit with children! (We had our three-year-old in tow when we visited.) Something I appreciated as a Mama, is how common it is to have playgrounds attached to restaurants! During warmer months, seating is outdoors, and often there is a playground on the grounds of the restaurant, allowing parents to have a stress-free dinner whilst the kiddos run around and expend their endless energy.
Because of its proximity to Austria, Slovenians tend to have a Germanic mentality around cleanliness and tidiness. When you ask “how are you?” in Slovenian, the answer literally translates to “everything is in order.” They’re generally flexible because their country has changed so much since its independence in 1991. They’ve never been occupied by the Turks, and some surmise this is what causes them to be even-keeled with a mild and patient temperament and not aggressive.
Fun Facts About Slovenia
- Approximately 65% of the country is forest, therefore very green. It reminded us of our beloved Washington State, where we lived for the last ten years before moving to Spain
- Slovenia is known as “the gate of the Balkans”
- The population of Slovenia is around 2 million people
- Don’t compare Ljubljana to Vienna; locals do not like that
- Nearly 90% of the population voted to become an independent country in 1990
- Schools are free until age 26
- sLOVEnia is the only country in the world with the word “love” in the name. Lublu = “love”; Ljubljana means “beloved”
- In 2007, Slovenia entered the EU and started using the euro as their currency
- The economy is quite good, and it’s considered higher class than their Balkan neighbors
- There are approximately 1,000 bears in Slovenia; they have to hunt them to control the population, otherwise the bears will get too close to the city; you can try bear goulash or bear salami
- Slovenia has always been the wealthiest of the Yugoslavian countries
- Ljubljana is one of the top ten safest cities in the world
- Grad = castle
- Jama = cave
- Pekarna = bakery
- Slovenians get an early start to their day, and end early. Most restaurant kitchens close around 8 – 9 PM (this is when kitchens open in Spain! So that took some getting used to for us eating earlier like we did in the U.S.)
Where to Stay in Slovenia
Slovenia is quite a small country, but there can be traffic, so it’s important to plan your stay around what you’d like to see. Having based ourselves for our full 9 nights in Ljubljana, I would have done it slightly differently. The only reason I didn’t choose a few nights in Bled, is because when I looked up the drive time on Googlemaps, it said 45 minutes, which was correct…without traffic. With traffic it was often upwards of 2 hours in red, barely moving, bumper to bumper. Therefore, I recommend at least 2 nights in Bled so that you can visit Triglav National Park and the Julian Alps. If you enjoy the sea, you can opt to stay near Piran, though accommodation is more expensive and it will be crowded in peak season. If you’re looking for a city stay, the bulk of your stay should be based in Ljubljana, as it’s a great centralized base for visiting just about anywhere in the country.
We rented a car from Trieste Airport where we flew into, which I highly recommend if you want the freedom to explore the country. You will see license plates from all over Europe, as many Europeans drive from their home town to Slovenia.
Now that you know a bit more about this wonderful country, let’s dive into the best things to do in Slovenia!
Best Things To Do in Slovenia (Including 10 Best Things to Do in Lake Bled)
Visit Triglav National Park.
Just a 45-minute drive from the city center, is Triglav National Park, where you can find all kinds of wonderful nature activities, including hiking to (and behind!) a waterfall, rock climbing, hiking, toboggan riding, and mountain biking (including e-bikes!)
On our first day, we hiked to Pericnik Waterfall. Parking is not allowed inside the park in this area, so you’ll need to find parking near Pizzeria Kot and the Supermarket, then take the free bus, which runs every hour. The hike is fairly easy, and is suitable for children.
*TIP* – instead of waiting a long time with poor service for sub-par pizza at Pizzeria Kot (the only restaurant around), go to the market next door and pick up cheese, salami, and fresh bread for a delicious picnic lunch!
On the way to Triglav, make a stop at Dovje Mojstrana for a coffee and a view of the most beautiful Tiffany turquoise blue river. Many bicyclists stop here for a rest; there are comfortable reclining chairs, and even a play structure for children!
In this area there is a mountain toboggan called Besna Pehta Summer Toboggan in Kranjska Gora. We gave this one a miss because of the negative reviews around the staff as well as the short spacing between riders, making the ride very slow because people stop or go too slowly on the track. (Read on for the better- rated mountain toboggan over Lake Bled!)
Rent E-Bikes to Explore the Julian Alps (and bike to Italy!)
The #1 highlight of our entire trip was renting e-bikes and biking across the border to Italy! How often can you casually say, “today I biked to Italy!”? We rented bikes at Bike Kekec, which cost 35 euro per hour, or you can also rent them for half a day or a full day. In just 45 minutes on a flat trail with beautiful mountain views surrounding you at every turn, you’ll be on Italian soil. We took the route that was 34 kilometers (21 miles), and round trip it took us four hours (including a swim at the lake and a stop for lunch at the Rifugio at the top.) We biked through fields of wildflowers and views of the stunning cragged mountain vistas.
The trail is flat for most of the way until you reach the mountain, then you’ll zig zag through dirt trails, and that’s where the help of the e-bike kicks in! It’s rated intermediate, and there are two lakes along the way (both swimmable), as well as a restaurant at the first lake (Fusine Laghi) and a Rifugio at the top of the trail – both serving delicious Italian fare for tired hikers and bikers.
Biking through rugged mountain peaks, passing through rivers and fields of wildflowers was exhilarating and gliding on e-bikes with such ease, felt like we were flying. It was to date, one of the most memorable experiences in my life.
Enjoy a Lovely Viewpoint from a Small Observation Tower in Zelenci
This turquoise lake is only a five-minute drive from the e-bike rental in Kranjska Gora. You simply park and walk ten minutes to the crystal clear turquoise lake, where you can see trout swimming freely and a stunning mountain backdrop.
Visit the Picture Perfect Postcard Lake Bled
You may have never heard of Slovenia, but I’m sure you’ve seen photos at some point in your life, of this stunning church atop an island in the center of a gorgeous lake. This is the famous Lake Bled, and it’s even more beautiful in real life than in photos!
There are a plethora of activities to do along the lake, including:
- Visit Bled Castle
- Take a stroll around the lake, which is 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) around the perimeter
- Climb to higher viewpoints with great vistas – Osojnica Trail was our favorite. Just 20 minutes each way will reward you with stunning views high above the lake.
- Swim in the lake (the lake at its deepest point, is 31 meters, or 97 feet deep) – it’s crystal clear and incredibly invigorating
- Dine at one of the many restaurants along the perimeter – Old Cellar Bled is the most famous with excellent views, friendly service, and delicious food
- Try the famous Bled cake
- Order the trout – a staple in this area
- Stand up paddle board
- Rent a wooden boat or take a traditional pletna boat ride, operated by skilled oarsmen along the lake
- Visit the Church of Assumption on the island in the center of the lake and ring the wishing bell. Legend has it that if you ring the bell three times, your wish will be granted
Unleash Your Inner Child (or go with your child) at the Straza Hill Toboggan
Overlooking Lake Bled, this toboggan is better rated than the previous one I mentioned in Kranjska Gora, though during peak season, the queue can be upwards of two hours once you purchase your ticket. One way to avoid standing in queue in the hot sun, is to hike up to the top; a nice thigh-burner that takes around 20 minutes. There’s still a queue at the top, but it’s much shorter (because you have to work for it with the hike!) and goes much quicker because when waiting at the bottom, every other chairlift is taken by a toboggan that must be sent back up to the top. If you opt for the hike, you’ll miss the chair lift ride, but gain over an hour of your holiday back. If you have small children, you can go with them on your lap.
*TIP* – An important thing to note about Lake Bled is that there’s only one road going in and out with one lane going each way, so during peak summer season, this can get clogged and what should normally be a 45-minute drive from the city center, turns into a two-hour drive in barely moving traffic. Plan to visit early or later in the day.
Visit Vintgar Gorge
Just ten minutes’ drive from Lake Bled, is a stunning gorge with turquoise waters and a wooden observation plank.
Visit Lake Bohinj
Just a bit further past Lake Bled, is the beautiful and less visited Lake Bohinj. You can take a cable car 1,535 meters (5,000 feet) above sea level overlooking the lake.
Lake Jasna is another lovely lake that is closer to Ljubljana if you’re not keen to sit in traffic to Lake Bled.
Take a Train Through One of the Biggest Cave Systems in the World at Postojna Caves
This was another one of the top highlights of our trip (and certainly our three-year-old son’s highlight!) Postojna Cave is located just a 35-minute drive from the center of Ljubljana, where you take a train that goes for 15 minutes through 3.5 kilometers (just over two miles) of cave systems (at some points so low you’ll need to duck your head!) where you can see stalactites and stalagmites, which have formed over the past 160,000+ years. Even if you don’t have kids, this is an absolute must-see; we almost gave this a miss because we’ve been fortunate to see some spectacular caves during our world travels, and recently saw one in Thessaloniki, Greece, but at the last minute we decided to go, and we’re so happy we did! I highly recommend purchasing your tickets online in advance, especially during high season, as they are timed tickets every hour. The tour lasts 90 minutes, and you get to take the train in and out. Do note that inside the cave it gets quite cold, so even in the summer, be sure to bring a jacket and wear pants.
Photograph Predjama Castle
Located just a 15-minute drive from the entrance of Postojna Caves, this impregnable medieval castle has been perched atop a 120-meter (nearly 400′) cliff for over 800 years. Sitting at the mouth of the Postojna Cave Complex, Predjama Castle is listed in the Guinness World Records as the world’s largest cave castle. We opted not to go inside, as parking was gridlocked and our toddler needed to sleep, so I just took a few photos from the outside.
Visit the Small Slice of Slovenia’s Coastline on the Adriatic Sea and the Coastal Town of Piran
Located in the Southwest of the country, you can enjoy Slovenia’s small coast on the Adriatic Sea (only 46 kilometers, or 30 miles long – poor Slovenia, got the short end of the stick when it comes to coastline – their neighbor, Croatia got the majority of it!) Enjoy a day by the sea, but don’t expect endless white sandy beaches. Part of the coastline that is accessible can be rocky, and much of it is built up with walkways and grassy areas. You can rent sun beds and umbrellas for a full day, and there’s also an inflatable water obstacle course for kids, like we saw all over Greece.
One of the most beautiful sea towns, is Piran, which is characterized by its narrow land, jutting into the Gulf of Trieste. Known for its Medieval architectures and narrow cobblestone streets, you can easily spend an afternoon and evening here, enjoying Tartini Square, boutique shopping, and enjoying delicious seafood. Piran is known for its salt production, and you can find the local sea salt and fleur de sal in many of the local shops (including in chocolate bars!) You will feel as though you are in Italy here.
Support Local in the Country’s Capital, Ljubljana
I’ve saved Slovenia’s capital city for last! As I mentioned before, Ljubljana is one of the top ten safest cities in the world. The streets are remarkably clean, and I loved that walking through a capital city felt like a tranquil lullaby; it’s very calm, quiet, and charming with cobblestone streets along the green Lubljanica River lined with weeping willows and other verdant foliage. It’s a very romantic city, and though there aren’t a million things to do like in most capital cities, the charm of visiting Ljubljana is simply walking through the city itself and discovering delightful surprises along the way.
There are plenty of fun things to do in Ljubljana! Take a stroll through the open air Central Market, where you will find locals selling their home-made wares. Very few products here are made in China, which I love to see; whenever we visit a country’s local market, I always look for locally made items. Here you will find ceramics, wood, and unique jewelry. Also, you must try the wild strawberries during the summertime; they’re the smallest and sweetest strawberries I’ve ever tasted! Next, visit the Ribarnica fish market, located underneath Central Market.
Photograph Butcher’s Bridge and its thousands of locks. Get a Thai massage at Thai Sabai to soothe your aching joints from all the hiking, biking and outdoor adventure! If you have kids, a great place to go on a rainy day is Mala Ulica (translating to “small street”), which is an indoor play space for babies and children of all ages. Another great activity to do with or without kids, is to take a boat ride along the river.
Ljubljana is quite flat, so you won’t have the added challenges of hills like in Lisbon. However, if you’re traveling with someone who doesn’t walk well or needs some assistance, there are free rides offered in an electric golf cart! Just call the number and they will come pick you up.
During the summer they have a “rain spot” – a magical circle in the center of the city, to cool off with a sprinkler surreptitiously perched overhead, releasing droplets of water, making it feel like it’s raining. I think every hot city should adopt this brilliant idea!
Where To Eat (Including Specialty Coffee), and Food To Try in Slovenia
Slovenia is well into specialty coffee, and you’ll find several purveyors roasting their own beans and honoring the bean-to-cup journey. Two of our favorites were Mala Prazarna (which translates to “small roaster”) and Crno Zrno Specialty Coffee, run by a man from Colombia named Alexander. He is the owner and the only person behind the bar, measuring everything with precision and chatting while he serves you. It was a personal experience and the location is quite unique.
For a fun dinner experience, try Pop’s Aperitivo, located in a hip space serving cocktails and international fare. For traditional local food and delicious dumplings, try Moji štruklji Slovenije, located in the outdoor market; a prime spot for people watching!
For a Parisian-like experience for sweet-tooth lovers, you cannot miss Yauya Patisserie – this gem is somewhat hidden in the sense that they do not put any signs out; their ethos seems to be one of minimalism and quiet exclusivity. As soon as you walk in, it’s an experience to behold; your eyes will be drawn to the gorgeous cakes and sweets that are all made by hand and in small batches. The owners are a lovely young married couple; the husband, an ex-volleyball player, married to the pastry chef – they create magic. If you’re a lover of chai lattes, Yauya had my favorite chai in Ljubljana. They also have a gelato garden just next door to the patisserie – also without signs, only discovered by word of mouth.
Two must-try desserts whilst in Slovenia, are the Lake Bled Cake (right), a creamy cake with phyllo dough that has a custard consistency, and Prekmurska gibanica (left), a layered cake containing poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins, and quark fillings. It was well balanced and not too sweet.
Drawing influences from Turkey, and also common in other Balkan countries like Serbia and Bosnia, you will see Burek served in every pekarna (bakery). Burek is a layered pastry with phyllo dough, filled either with cheese or with a mixture of ground meat, onions and carrots (this is our favorite and what we ate for breakfast nearly every day!) In addition to savory burek, you can also get sweet-filled burek.
Take a stroll through Tivoli Park, which is a beautiful 5 square kilometer (2 miles) green space within the city. There’s a great children’s playground here.
Visit the Ljubljana Grad (castle) for beautiful aerial views of the city.
For a memorable dining experience, make a reservation at the Strelec Restaurant, which holds one Michelin Star. My husband treated me to dinner for my birthday here, and it was an outstanding experience. Not only was the food delicious and innovative, but the restaurant is located inside the castle, which is an experience in itself! After dinner we danced under the moonlit plaza of the castle with nobody else around. It was very romantic.
Spend a day in Ptuj located about a 1.5-hour drive East of Ljubljana.
Ptuj is the oldest town in Slovenia, nestled between wine valleys and the Drava river, and has a wellness focus, including a thermal spa. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it East during our trip – we’ll have to visit this on our next trip to Slovenia!
Visit Soca Valley (Bovec), known as “The Valley of the Julian Alps”
If you’re seeking an adrenaline fix, this area is for you! Here you’ll find one of the most beautiful turquoise rivers where you can zipline across Europe’s longest zipline (4.5 kilometers, or 2.7 miles), white water raft, or kayak. We also didn’t make it here because it’s over a two-hour drive from Ljubljana.
In conclusion, Slovenia is an easy country to fall in love with straight away, and we are already planning our return visit this autumn to see the beautiful fall foliage during a different season!
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